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2007 Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Pinot Noir

I’m happy to say that I expect to have quite a few more Tasmanian wine reviews!  Our mixed dozen from the Tamar Valley has arrived, and we are happily, slowly, working our way through them. One of the nicest things about our trundle through the Tamar Valley is that you can pick up a bottle or two at each winery, as you go, and then when you buy enough to make a dozen, whichever winery you’re at will box them up and ship them for you.  I really, really appreciate that.

So! Tamar Ridge was the very first Tasmanian winery we visited on our Big Day of Wine Tasting.  We were staying at the Rosevears vineyard, just outside Launceston, and did a tasting there when we checked in, so technically I guess you could say they were first – but the Rosevears estate is part of Tamar Ridge’s stables, responsible for the Rosevears Estate and Pirie ranges (both very fine ranges, I must add), so I will stick with my original statement. The Tamar Ridge winery is set among the vines of the Kayena Vineyard,

The 2007 Kayena Vineyard Pinot Noir pretty much set the standard against which I evaluated other pinot noirs throughout our stay in Tasmania.  It displayed the strawberry/boysenberry tones that characterise pinot noir, but without letting the palate stray anywhere near sweet, juicy or overpowering: rather, it kept the berry tones in perfect balance with oak and spice. This wine is very restrained, without sacrificing fullness or depth.  There are some fine tannins, but just enough to make them worth commenting on, and the final note is a lingering wood/berry one. I loved this wine pretty hard, and I regret that we could only bring one bottle of it back with us.  Its sophistication and balance is impressive and, frankly, delicious.

On a final note: Tamar Ridge do a damn fine tasting.  You don’t get rushed and you get an excellent commentary on each one, especially in light of the fact that, as a devotee of the holy grape of Shiraz, I needed a little guidance on merlot and gerwurtztraminer.  We were lead through the whole range, both the Kayena Vineyard and Devil’s Corner range, from the first crisp whites through to the merlot blends at the end, and finally ended with a sample of the botryitis.  Now, I don’t mind a botrytis, although it’s never been a passion of mine, but seriously: the Tamar Ridge botrytis is so good, so fine, so light and so splendid that I think I may never be able to enjoy another winery’s.  It’s going to have to be Tamar Ridge or nothing. I guess I can live with that.

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2008 Bay of Fires Pinot Gris

Bay of Fires wines, apart from having both an awesome name and an exceptional location, do an excellent line of white wines.  When we rocked up to do a tasting, in late June, it was very quiet and very, very beautiful.  A lot of the Tamar Valley wineries close up the cellar door during June, or limit which wines they will open for tasting, to minimise waste (no point opening up a sampler bottle of everything if nobody drops in for a tasting over the next week or two).  Bay of Fires was only offering whites on the day we arrived, and I’m glad: there’s no way we could have kept to our budget if their reds were as good as their whites.

The 2008 Pinot Gris is a really fine drop.  There is a strong trinity of pear, apple and pineapple flavours: pear is definitely the defining note, however.  Combined with very faint nutmeg and very, very faint citrus, the result is a light, singing palate that is neither airy nor weighty.  There is a sense of fine construction, beginning with gentle apple notes that warm into pear, then sharpen into citrus and pineapple, before softening to pear and spices and then leaving a final, lingering thread of pear.  This is a wine that, I think, would suffer if it was over-chilled: don’t let your enthusiasm for cold white wine overtake you (not that I’m suggesting it should be served room temperature, just don’t serve it too cold). And certainly don’t chill the glasses for this one.

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Velo 2007 Limited Release Shiraz

Holy cow, Tasmania, you kept quiet about this one!

My partner and I recently got back from a fantastic trip around Tasmania, the lovely land of excellent wines and cheese (and apples, apparently, but I wasn’t really in the market for them). We did some wine tasting in the Tamar Valley which was heavenly.  Being winter, a lot of the wineries close their cellar door for a few weeks, to concentrate on bottling, and because there aren’t enough visitors coming through for it to be worth their while to keep the cellar door open: but we still managed a pretty good range of wines for the day!  Heaven.  The last winery we touched on was Velo, just outside Launceston. We were greeted at the door by a jolly black labradoodle (whose name was, I think, Ellie — if she’s reading this, hi! Good girl!) who escorted us inside where we met Michael Wilson, cofounder of Velo wines and ex-tour de France cyclist.

We had a wonderful tasting and bought a few bottles — but the big surprise of the day was the Shiraz.  Tasmanian wine producers, being in a cold-climate wine area, tend to focus more on pinot noir and merlot in their red wines, with occasional forays into cabernet merlot blends.  Shiraz is almost completely absent, and as a shiraz-loving girl, I am embarrassed to say how surprised I was.  I think I tend to treat shiraz as a default wine, so its absence, however logical, surprises me.  But I was not saddened: the merlot and pinot noir from Tasmania are good enough to melt your heart; they’re simply beautiful. (I’ll write more about these when our wines arrive: we shipped a mixed dozen home from the Tamar Valley, and then carried a coouple of rogue bottles in our checked-in luggage when we came home.)

The Velo Shiraz was thus a surprise: a cold-climate shiraz?  And it’s only a limited release, too. There were only 200 cases made for the 2007 release, and, I tell you what, I’ll fight you for them.  The tannins were remarkably restrained, but still detectable in providing a firm structure to the flavours of dark red berries and moderate spices. I realise this is fairly tautological, but I’ll say it anyway: Velo’s shiraz is not like a Barossa or Coonawarra shiraz.  It is far more restrained and delicate, but is nonetheless full-bodied, warm and complex. There is a gentle fruitiness reiniscient of cranberries and redcurrants to the very front palate, which subtly gives way to the notes of allspice and (I think) oak.  The lingering notes are savoury and soft-edged.  I have noticed that some wines have extremely fruity — almost sweet — opening notes, and then very savoury, almost acidic, final notes: not this one.  This wine displays skillful moderation through the whole palate, creating a subtle and delicious, unified flavour, whose range from front to back palate is gentle and controlled without compromising the strength and full-bodiedness of the shiraz tones.

I was hugely impressed, and I’m thinking of trying to procure a few more bottles.  You can’t order the shiraz through their online order form, so if you’re interested in trying it, you will need to contact Velo wines and ask specially.  I can’t recommend it enough.  I’ll be reviewing a couple of other Velo treats when they arrive, and frankly, I can’t wait.

Velo Wines
PO Box 1162
Legana, Tasmania
Australia
7277
Telephone: 03 6330 3677

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Up yer nose!

Don’t just sit there, celebrate something!

While sorting through old delicious. magazines the other day (culling the herd, etc.) I came across an advertisement for, I think, Jacob’s Creek sparkling something-or-other.  The above was its tagline, and it kinda got me thinking, as most things do.

I love champagne — and I use the term inaccurately and shamelessly.  I love sparkling anything, provided it isn’t sweet.  Something about the bubbles thrills me to bits, and I think the above quote summarises why. It makes me remember that there’s plenty worth celebrating.  Even if I’ve had the shittest of shit days and am popping a cork to cheer myself up, things are already pretty good.

Tonight, a little tired and overfed from a few too many Lunches and Dinner Withs over the past few days, I’m having a light dinner.  Cheese, maybe a piece of toast later on, fruit, and champagne.  (Inexpensive domestic non-vintage sparkling white.)  It makes me very happy.  I feel like I’m some society-weary fancypants taking a refreshing quiet evening instead of, well, a glutton who has eaten too much lately and who is only deferring toast-making until she can find the Vegemite.  The presence of bubbles in my glass lifts and refreshes me, and makes me so cheerful that I have no trouble finding things to celebrate. My bed has an electric blanket!  My friends laugh at my jokes! I found the Vegemite!

I have ornamented my champagne with pomegranate seeds.  I heartily recommend this: the very delicate taste of the pomegranate, and its wonderful texture, make a perfect complement to the mouthfeel and restrained flavours of sparkling white wine.  I am inclined to think this is almost enough its own right to celebrate, since pomegranate seeds in my drink makes me feel like Cleopatra or something.

So, don’t just sit there.  You know what to do.

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Crossing genres a bit

Name: B3 2006 Riesling.

Status: Chilly and refreshing.  To kill.

I’m sorry, I tried to make this all sci-fi and awesome.  I like the name “B3 2006 Riesling” because it sounds like a sort of robot.  It’s awesome enough without any robots, though.  It is slim, beautiful and elegant in the bottle, with a parchment label and narrow, tapered lines.  Beautiful.  And then you pour it into a glass and it gets even better.

There are strong scents of citrus and freshly cut grass on the nose, and these are followed up by strong lemon, lime and pineapple notes on the palate.  Delicious!  Really light and crispy-fresh, this is a delicious riesling that is clear and sharp without being acidic or overwhelming.

And if it was a robot, it would be the most awesome, sleek-line robot you can imagine with a saucy attitude and a kind heart.

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What do you call it?

“The Seven Surveys Old Vines” is the name of tonight’s wine although it the label has so many names that I’m not sure if that’s enough to identify it.  I love that name.  It echoes of history, stories and interest.  This is Peter Lehman’s Old Vines GSM, and the inclusion of the acronym somehow makes it a little more clinical.  It’s a 2006, too.  Delicious.

A gift from friends for M’s birthday, it’s complex and potent and beautiful.  Even taking into account my mad prejudice in favour of grenache, this is a really, really good wine.

What does any of this mean, anyway?  I had a sublime moment of shared experience; a burst of rich, cello-like flaovurs and scents of reducrrant with my best: can I even convey this?

The scent is warm: there are notes of vanilla, wood and cinnamon, and a faint top note of sharp redcurrant.  The first impression on the mouth is that redcurrant, followed by a sharp acid peak and then a warming, soft spiciness.  Then redness, spices, wood, warmth.  There are some moderate tannins that provide a sense of structure to the velvety mouthfeel, but it is, overall, restrained and balanced.  There’s a lingering faint acid, which gives way to that redcurranty flavour I mentioned earlier, and the final note is one of sharp red fruits.  Heavenly.

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Quaffing and how it’s done

I realise now, after having this blog for a little while, that I have committed a greivous oversight in failing to address the blog’s eponym, the quaff.

The quaff, as you can probably tell by its old-timey sounding name, is a traditional imbibing technique that has been honed over generations.  The key element of the quaff is the way the chin, throat and mouth are carefully choreographed into an elegant tilt.  Meanwhile, the muscles within the mouth participate in their own miniature of ballet in order to fully appreciate the symphony of flavours. In order to truly appreciate the quaff, let’s take a brief look at some of the other methods at our disposal:

Many of you will already be familiar with the sip, the casual, minimalist moistening of the lips and tongue that takes place at the edge of a largely-unmoved glass, enjoyed to spin a tasty beverage out for longer, or to delay the eventual gulp of an un-tasty beverage.

Then there’s the gulp, the great beneficiary of the hurried.  Ever queued for a drink at half-time at a show? You get your cold, delicious beverage and the next thing you know, the show’s back on and you can’t, as they say, take it with you.  If you’ve ever been in this situation, then you’ve probably enjoyed a gulp.  Gulps are a tricky area: on one hand, they are fraught with peril.  If you drink is too hot, too cold, too bubbly, too abundant or too garnished, then gulping is going to present you with some challenges and possibly pain.  Additionally, they are often considered rude, as choking down your drink as if you’re a 16-year-old who wants to get a beer in before they realise you’re underage is not really a great way to impress your companions.  On the other hand, in some circles, gulping shows enthusiasm, pleasure, and a wish to get out of designated driver responsibilities.  So, chosen carefully, the gulp has its place in the toolbox of the drinker.

The swill is a slightly more advanced step.  In order to transform the simple act of drinking into swilling, there must be an element of anger, contempt, or, at the very least, displeasure. The word ‘swill’ can also be used as a noun: it can mean a drink (or food) that is of intolerably poor quality. However, for our purposes, we are talking about the action of swilling.  While swilling is probably best done with swill, even a sample of a fine Riesling can be transformed into an act of swilling if, mid-mouthful, something unsettles you. Imagine: you raise the chill glass to your lips, and while reflecting on the crispness of the flavour, your drinking companion asks if you have any Coke they could top up their wine with.  That grimace you just made, followed by a hasty swallowing of your previously delicious drink, is a swill.  Or perhaps you’re angry and upset by something that has happened to you at work and are having a soothing drink: the fierceness with which you drink your liquor is the degree to which you are swilling.

So, five hundred words in and no sign of slowing down if that open bottle at my elbow is any indicator, we turn to the concept of the quaff.  Some would argue that the quaff belongs to the advanced school of drinker: I argue that we everyone has always known how to do it.

If the key factor behind swilling is displeasure is annoyance or unhappiness, the key factor behind the quaff is amiable curiosity.  The quaffer is pleasantly anticipating their drink, but has no preconceptions or judgments to interfere with their experience. Whatever their drink has to offer, they want to experience it.  And the quaff enhances that experience, optimising the flavours, mouthfeel and aromas that the drink offers.

To begin, you will obviously need a drink of some kind.  I encourage wine, whose complexity and intricacy benefits greatly from the quaff, but to be honest, the quaff will flatter anything from champagne to cold Milo.  Take your drink comfortably in one hand, following your instincts as to comfort and ease (if you are in company, check with your companions before removing trousers). Now is not the time to trouble yourself with how you should hold a glass or any other nonsense.  Swirl the drink a little. Watch its motions and colour and reflect on whatever suits you.  You have not yet quaffed, but you are relaxing and clearing the mind.  Once you are feeling pleasantly anticipatory, you are ready to quaff.  If you’re feeling disgruntled or unimpressed, now is the time to turn it into a swill.

Without lifting your glass, tilt your head back.  You are aiming to get your jawline parallel to the ground, with a slight curve in your neck.  Gaze at the sky at a slight angle, and raise your glass smoothly to your lips. As if through instinct, you will find that your lips pout slightly to meet the glass — don’t fight it. The next step is to inhale gently as you pour some of your liquid into your mouth.  Don’t aim to fill your mouth nor drain your glass, just enough.  Ah.

The quaff can go one of two ways now: you can simply swallow your drink and exhale, experiencing the aftertaste, or you can hold the drink in your mouth for a few seconds, tasting it with the different parts of your tongue and exploring the mouthfeel.  Either way, I hope it was as enjoyable as you had hoped. If not: discard your glass and live to quaff another day.

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The strange beast

Oh, sparkling red wine, how I love thee.

As a matter of fact, I like sparkling red so much that I was tempted to write a sonnet about.  But I’m fairly sure the blog gods have got strict rules about neglecting your blog and then returning with a sonnet, so I would probably get smacked down in some horrifically ironic way, like getting red wine on every square foot of carpet in my rental property, or cutting myself on a wine glass, or dropping a case of newly-purchased bottles. (These are the sorts of things that keep me awake at night.)

I love the unexpectedness of sparkling red wine.  I remember trying it when I was still a fairly new drinker, thinking it was going to be sweet and Ribena-esque.  It was velvety and savoury, redolent of spices and berries. Definitely sweeter than most still reds, sparkling reds still have the potential to be spicy, peppery and complex quaffs. (I confess to finding the pink foam entertaining, but perhaps that’s just me.)

Last night I enjoyed the Andrew Garret non-vintage sparkling burgundy: an old friend. Nothing terribly flash or avant-garde; strong, lush berries, coupled with very faint traces of cinnamon and pepper, which rein in the juiciness of the fruits.  A very fine bead that gives the mouthfeel a pleasantly suedey touch.  You can comfortably serve this to just about any drinker and they’ll like it.  Definitely a little sweeter than I would like a still red, but I can forgive a lot in the presence of bubbles.

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Groundrey Homestead 2007 Unwooded Chardonnay

Chardonnay is known in this country for a boom, a bust, an ironic following and the expression ‘ABC drinkers’, meaning ‘Anything But Chardonnay’ drinkers.  I think (and I am calling upon scant research here) that the explosion in popularity chardonnay had internationally was at roughly the same time as an overall sudden growth spurt in the Australian wine industry.  According to the Wikipedia article on the matter, a chardonnay boom is something of a rite of passage for emerging wine industries, because it’s a remarkably tolerant species to grow, as well as being delicious and fairly accessible as a wine. I rather like that.

Anyway, chardonnay is a wine I had to grow into, but one of the first I remember enjoying was an unwooded chardonnay. As a result, I’ve got a bit of a soft spot for them.  Plus, as a wine n00b, it made me feel awfully clever to specify “an unwooded chardonnay, if they’ve got one”.  Goundrey’s Homestead 2007 Unwooded Chardonnay is very tasty: it has lots and lots of lemon and fresh pineapple flavours, and the overwhelming impression I took from it was of bright youthfulness.  There was no brashness or tartness, just delicious, fresh chardonnay.

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Taylors Adelaide Hills 2008 Pinot Noir

For all my good intentions regarding the consumption of more pinot noir this year, I haven’t had more than one or two.  I certainly haven’t been showing the initiative I could have.  So now, in order to make up for this laxity, I present a fantastic pinot noir for consideration: Taylors Adelaide Hills 2008. Ordinarily, Taylors’ pinot noir is sourced from Clare Valley, but for some reason this particular release was sourced from the Adelaide Hills — I have no problem with this, I love the Adelaide Hills. I’m just mentioning it because it seems to be an unusual case.  Could be wrong.

The bouquet is fairly light and fruity, but with strong rosewood and cherry notes that give it a firm basis.  This wine is really well-structured, with complex flavours of rose, rhubarb, a little plumminess and a faint hint of cloves and vanilla at the top.  I must admit that all these notes probably give the impression that this is a sweet wine, but nothing could be further from the truth.  There is a great deal of woodiness to the flavours that provide earthy bottom notes, which allows the wine to carry those fragrant flavours without ever straying into sweetness.

Although a little more robust than pinot noir typically can be, that is not to the wine’s detriment.  It’s a fragrant, delicious wine that carries the delicacy of pinot noir with plenty of support.  I think pinot noirs can sometimes drift away, getting watery or, worse, becoming a donut wine (plenty at the top and bottom, but nothing in the middle). Taylors is an excellent winery, and this is definitely an example of some of their finest work.

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