I realise now, after having this blog for a little while, that I have committed a greivous oversight in failing to address the blog’s eponym, the quaff.
The quaff, as you can probably tell by its old-timey sounding name, is a traditional imbibing technique that has been honed over generations. The key element of the quaff is the way the chin, throat and mouth are carefully choreographed into an elegant tilt. Meanwhile, the muscles within the mouth participate in their own miniature of ballet in order to fully appreciate the symphony of flavours. In order to truly appreciate the quaff, let’s take a brief look at some of the other methods at our disposal:
Many of you will already be familiar with the sip, the casual, minimalist moistening of the lips and tongue that takes place at the edge of a largely-unmoved glass, enjoyed to spin a tasty beverage out for longer, or to delay the eventual gulp of an un-tasty beverage.
Then there’s the gulp, the great beneficiary of the hurried. Ever queued for a drink at half-time at a show? You get your cold, delicious beverage and the next thing you know, the show’s back on and you can’t, as they say, take it with you. If you’ve ever been in this situation, then you’ve probably enjoyed a gulp. Gulps are a tricky area: on one hand, they are fraught with peril. If you drink is too hot, too cold, too bubbly, too abundant or too garnished, then gulping is going to present you with some challenges and possibly pain. Additionally, they are often considered rude, as choking down your drink as if you’re a 16-year-old who wants to get a beer in before they realise you’re underage is not really a great way to impress your companions. On the other hand, in some circles, gulping shows enthusiasm, pleasure, and a wish to get out of designated driver responsibilities. So, chosen carefully, the gulp has its place in the toolbox of the drinker.
The swill is a slightly more advanced step. In order to transform the simple act of drinking into swilling, there must be an element of anger, contempt, or, at the very least, displeasure. The word ‘swill’ can also be used as a noun: it can mean a drink (or food) that is of intolerably poor quality. However, for our purposes, we are talking about the action of swilling. While swilling is probably best done with swill, even a sample of a fine Riesling can be transformed into an act of swilling if, mid-mouthful, something unsettles you. Imagine: you raise the chill glass to your lips, and while reflecting on the crispness of the flavour, your drinking companion asks if you have any Coke they could top up their wine with. That grimace you just made, followed by a hasty swallowing of your previously delicious drink, is a swill. Or perhaps you’re angry and upset by something that has happened to you at work and are having a soothing drink: the fierceness with which you drink your liquor is the degree to which you are swilling.
So, five hundred words in and no sign of slowing down if that open bottle at my elbow is any indicator, we turn to the concept of the quaff. Some would argue that the quaff belongs to the advanced school of drinker: I argue that we everyone has always known how to do it.
If the key factor behind swilling is displeasure is annoyance or unhappiness, the key factor behind the quaff is amiable curiosity. The quaffer is pleasantly anticipating their drink, but has no preconceptions or judgments to interfere with their experience. Whatever their drink has to offer, they want to experience it. And the quaff enhances that experience, optimising the flavours, mouthfeel and aromas that the drink offers.
To begin, you will obviously need a drink of some kind. I encourage wine, whose complexity and intricacy benefits greatly from the quaff, but to be honest, the quaff will flatter anything from champagne to cold Milo. Take your drink comfortably in one hand, following your instincts as to comfort and ease (if you are in company, check with your companions before removing trousers). Now is not the time to trouble yourself with how you should hold a glass or any other nonsense. Swirl the drink a little. Watch its motions and colour and reflect on whatever suits you. You have not yet quaffed, but you are relaxing and clearing the mind. Once you are feeling pleasantly anticipatory, you are ready to quaff. If you’re feeling disgruntled or unimpressed, now is the time to turn it into a swill.
Without lifting your glass, tilt your head back. You are aiming to get your jawline parallel to the ground, with a slight curve in your neck. Gaze at the sky at a slight angle, and raise your glass smoothly to your lips. As if through instinct, you will find that your lips pout slightly to meet the glass — don’t fight it. The next step is to inhale gently as you pour some of your liquid into your mouth. Don’t aim to fill your mouth nor drain your glass, just enough. Ah.
The quaff can go one of two ways now: you can simply swallow your drink and exhale, experiencing the aftertaste, or you can hold the drink in your mouth for a few seconds, tasting it with the different parts of your tongue and exploring the mouthfeel. Either way, I hope it was as enjoyable as you had hoped. If not: discard your glass and live to quaff another day.
Tagged quaffing