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Time, gentlemen.

Well, I think we all knew it was coming: time to bring a close to Quaffle.

It’s not as gloomy as draining the bottle, though — I’ve decided that wine, like food and cookery, is important and beautiful enough that I’m going to incorporate it more into the main blog, The Cutlery Drawer.  I just won’t be doing wine reviews any more. It’s a lot like taking the end-of-the-week drinks with mates from the bar to home and rolling on for the night. Woo!

I’ll leave the old posts up because, hey, why not? They’re not hurting anybody. But all new wine- and quaffing-related palaver will be on the main blog. Mud in your eye!

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Barkeep, refill my glass!

I have been thinking thinking thinking thinking about wine and drinking and writing and drinking.  And then I had some more wine and did some more thinking.

See, Quaffle is something of a fringe child of the spoonfully.com domain. I like writing about wine, but I suspect I am not a wine writer. I think of wine writers as the kind of people who can write about tannins, tastes and blends persuasively and with the balance that comes from education and experience.  A wine reviewer strives to give you the same experience they had with their sampling, and to do so successfully requires fairly specific skills and a specific vocabulary.

I am not a wine writer.  When I kicked off Quaffle, I thought it would be an excellent place to practice writing about wine: after all, I love writing and I love wine, and it seemed like a natural pairing. I saw myself practicing my wine reviews and gradually becoming one of these clever critters who can share their experiences with flair and delicacy.

But lately, I’ve been thinking about what I like about blogging, and about what it is I like about spoonfully.com as a whole.  It’s taken me a bit of time, but the voice that I’ve been growing on this website is getting stronger and louder, and more, well, mine. And I’m realising that this means I am not a wine writer in the way I had thought I would try to be — and nor do I want to be.  Writing about the blend and the tannins gets repetitive after a while, and I’m moving away from that, so I’ve been avoiding writing about wine altogether.  I do love to write about food and cooking, and I do love wine and drinking, and I think these are all the same celebration of pleasure — but is it necessary to have a whole separate blog dedicated to the matter? Why not incorporate this passion into the main blog, The Cutlery Drawer, where I write about the rest of my life?

So, I’ve got a couple of choices: do I keep Quaffle up and alive as a place to periodically write about wine and drinking in general, sharing experiences and thoughts in a broader context and moving away from the role of reviews? Or do I walk Quaffle behind the barn, give it an apple and some gentle words, and then kindly unload both barrels behind its ears while it’s distracted with chomping and dribbling juice?  My inclination is towards the latter, I’m surprised to say, but I want to give it some thought.

Berton Vineyards Head Over Heels Semillon Sauvignon Blanc

Delicious!  I am so ready for summer wines.  It’s only spring, I admit, but that’s the summer wines warm-up season!  I can’t wait to review my first rose of the warmer seasons.  Meanwhile, a new and interesting little beast from a winery I have not tried before.

I like! There’s a teensy sharpness on the very first note, which gives an apt introduction to the lemongrass notes that swiftly follow. These are then supported with playful notes of pineapple and white nectarine, underpinned with faint savoury tones of clover and fresh baby spinach.  White wines can sometimes rely too heavily on citrus notes, but this is an excellent savoury balance.  Nice work Berton Vineyards.

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Sleepless nights

So, with one thing and another going on in my life lately, I have spent a lot of time thinking about my relationship with wine.  I love wine.  Absolutely love it.  Beer is refreshing, Guinness lovely, spirits fun, cocktails wicked: but wine standas alone.  It is my nectar, my tonic, my beloved.  Take a fun, relaxing meal, and add a glass of good wine and the colours deepen, the scents heighten, and happiness reigns. When I’m not drinking wine (when I’m the designated driver, for example), I find myself compulsively reaching for the wineglass that isn’t there.

But I am learning there are disadvantages to drinking, which I desperately want to close my eyes to: I want, so badly, for there to be no disadvantage or negative association with drinking wine, because I love it so. Finally, I’ve had to look myself in the face and admit a troubling fact.  Wine makes it hard for me to sleep. Going to sleep is easy, but I inevitably wake up in the middle of the night, alert as anything, and then have to try and wrestle myself back to sleep.  My understanding is that it’s sort of like whiplash insomnia: once the depressive effect of alcohol begins to wear off, the body finds itself overstimulated and wakes up — it’s as though the body has been stimulating itself (stop that sniggering) in order to counteract the depressive effect of alcohol, and then the depressive effect wears off and the stimulating effect takes a while to catch on.  This is purely my hunch, and, as you have probaby worked out, I’m no biologist — look it up yourself if you’re serious.  Anyway, this theory has been confirmed through a series of alcohol-free days, alcohol-indulgent days and corresponding sleep responses. There’s no way around it: if I drink a few glasses of wine, or drink too close to bedtime, I sleep badly.  This bothers me enormously, probably more than it really needs to.  I would far prefer that my love for wine only had beneficial effects.

But like any good relationship, eventually you have to acknowledge that your beloved may have some slight imperfections, and it is a sign of maturity (I tell myself) that you can face those imperfections and accept them.  And I think the sleeping thing is the kind of disadvantage I can work around.  A limit of only two glasses per evening, regular wine-free days (oh, the longing!) and no drinks after 8pm will certainly go a long way in allowing wine and I to continue our happy and long relationship as we grow.  Aw, isn’t that lovely?  I feel all warm and shirazzy inside.

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2007 Evans & Tate Margaret River Chardonnay

The funny thing about trying to maintain a blog about the wine I drink is that I am not usually at home when I am enjoying that first glass for the evening.  I toyed briefly with getting a little notebook and having that as my wine review book, but honestly, the mental image alone of me carefully making notes in a little notebook, while sipping and squinting into the mid-distance, was so pretentious that I had to force myself to wear some acidwash jeans to bring myself back down to Earth. So, instead, I write down notes on whatever’s handy: the back of an old envelope, a scrap of notepaper, a receipt — I find them in pockets the next day, or stuffed into my wallet weeks later, or at the bottom of my handbag.  It can sometimes be a bit of an exercise to translate my handwriting, and sometimes a strain to recall what it was I liked about a particular wine, but I think my note-taking skills are improving.

Today’s review is from a few nights ago: I discovered my notes on a piece of paper in the pocket of my jeans, unearthed when I was emptying said pockets to wash said jeans.   And it all came flooding back: this was a pretty fine wine.  The Evans & Tate is a pony in the McWilliam’s stable, based in Margaret River. This chardonnay was a classic, medium-bodied chardonnay.  The scent has light upper notes of lemongrass, which is also present on the first notes on the palate.  There is a delicate citrus tone which smoothly gives way to rich, buttery, oaky notes.  It’s beautifully classic, really embodying wooded chardonnay (to my mind).  The mouthfeel is unbelievably smooth, without being oily or cloying.  Very nice indeed!

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2008 Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir

It is mostly coincidental that I have another Tasmania wine to review.  Bu not entirely: our friend, inspired by our collection of Tas wines, procured a few of his own for us to enjoy over dinner.  I see no reason to apologise, however: Devil’s Corner produces fine drops.  Another pony in the Tamar Ridge stable of wines, the Devil’s Corner vineyard is quite close to the Kayena Vineyard in the Tamar Valley, Tasmania.  I don’t know where it gets the evocative name from, but I like it.

The 2008 Pinot Noir is a beauty; we spent a happy, tipsy ten minutes or so lifting our glasses up to light so we could look at the colour of the wine through the bowls of our glasses.  It has a warm, rosewood colour, leaning ever so slightly to the brownish side of the red spectrum.  The nose has a slightly stronger, sweeter tone than I expected, with very distinct raspberry and nutmeg scents.  At first sip, there is a sudden sharpness that I really didn’t expect, which very swiftly gave way to the classic pinot noir fruits: plum, redcurrants and faint raspberry.  The middle palate has some light wood notes, as well as tones of cardamon and nutmeg, and the final notes echo those spices, subtly underpinned with soft rose flavours.  The tannins are extremely mild, creating a silky mouthfeel.

On the whole, this is a plump and well-rounded wine. That first sharp note on the very tip of the front palate is surprising, but, interestingly, it doesn’t create an imbalanced wine.  Delicious!

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The Lark Distillery Single Malt Whisky

Just to clarify: this is from the Single Cask Distiller’s Selection, cask LD 99, bottled February 2009 and distilled by Kristy Lark.  It is hand-written on the label.

This stuff is perfect Heaven.  Our last night in Tasmania was spent in Hobart, and after a tiring drive (not to mention the shock of being in mobile phone coverage for the first time in a week), we wanted to go out and have a quiet drink.  En route to Salamanca Square from our hotel, we passed the cellar door for The Lark Distillery and, dudes, it is one of my nicest memories of Tasmania.  The chap behind the bar (what is the right name for someone who conducts a tasting?) lead us through the distillery’s premium range for a modest fee, speaking knowledgably about each drop and allowing plenty of time for savouring the flavours.  So good.  We settled on the Single Malt Whisky Single Cask Distiller’s Selection: it’s completely worth it.

There are heavenly aromas of vanilla, French oak and butter, and the palate is warm, soft and incredibly smooth.  This is a truly delicious whisky.  I am sorry to say we have already finished the slim bottle we brought home with us, but it’s not too late for you!  Order from their website with all convenient haste!

PS — I am not, in any way, affiliated with The Lark Distillery, except to the extent that a starry-eyed groupie may be considered affiliated.

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2007 Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz Grenache

I do like Peter Lehmann bottles.  They’re shapely and have a ♣ imprinted in the glass.  It arrests my attention, however, that Mr Lehmann and Co have seen fit to pop “Barossa” on the label, right above Shiraz Grenache, since I thought that Peter Lehmann wines were all Barossa.  That’s where I first (knowingly) encountered them, on a glorious driving trip through the Barossa Valley…ah.  Anyway, I looked it up — researching so you don’t have to! — and Peter Lehmann, although based and bottling in the Barossa, source grapes from all over.  So there we go.  On with the wine!

I love grenache.  I love shiraz.  Peter Lehmann wines conjure up fond memories of the Barossa Valley.  The bottle is interesting.  There’s nothing about this wine for me to dislike.  The aroma is strongly imbued with cloves and mild vanilla notes, and the first notes on the palate echo those flavours.  The overall impression is of a soft and medium-bodied wine, with supportive tannins at the finish that provide a bit of oomph.  On the middle palate are notes of currant, oak and a repeat of the cloves that first strike the nose, and it has a restrained, but beautifully dry, rosewood finish.  It’s a really well-balanced wine: no one flavour dominates, resulting a smooth, elegant wine.

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All fancy-like!

Tonight, we drink imported! 

Australia’s wine industry is, I think, one of the biggest pluses of our lifestyle.  I love Australian wine, and if I ever have a child, “Barossa” is the name going on the certificate.  That is not to say that while overseas I do not enjoy overseas wine: I do so.  But when at home, it’s not usually my first inclination to grab a bottle of the import stuff.  Tonight’s blessing is purely as a result of M’s impromptu decision-making, as we walked back to the car from a delicious, filling Indian meal with friends.  We swooped into an imported cheese, wine, chocolate and cigar shop, and picked up some fantastic French Brie and a bottle of Chianti — tonight’s tipple. Gabbiano 2007 Chianti.

My first thought is that it has a more woody fragrance than many reds that I’m used to.  I think I’m used to robust red wines having a spice-dominated bouquet.  There’s a warm woodishness to the bouquet, which is supported by the first taste.  The cedar flavours strongly support notes of redcurrant and roses, with very restrained tannins and a smooth, easy mouthfeel.  It’s surprisingly restrained without being weak or unstructured.  And so, so delicious.  I didn’t have a good time when we went to Italy, but this wine makes me want to go back.  And drink all their wine.  Especially their Chianti.

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2007 Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Riesling

Mmm, another Tamar Ridge wine.  It is purely coincidental that I’ve looked at two Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard offerings: it is not, I suspect, coincidental that they are both delicious.  This riesling is full-bodied, sharp and exuberant (to the extent that a liquid in a nice glass can be exuberant), with really bold passionfruit and lime notes.

There’s a sharpness on the very first note: an acidity that manages to be attention-getting without being distracting (like a pinch on the bottom).  This is immediately followed up by a smooth flush of passionfruit and pineapple notes.  Then the final notes are of lime and an echo of the passionfruit notes.  Really delicious. The passionfruit notes are a particular surprise, since the aroma only suggests lime and pineapple, with maybe a subtle, restrained thread of lemongrass.

This is an arresting, well-structured wine that is both refreshing and enticing.  I almost regret opening it, since it’s the middle of winter and I’m sitting on a couch in the dark: to do this wine justice, I really ought to be sitting on a deck, in the shade, in a summer sunset, chatting while we wait for dinner.  I should probably be wearing a flamboyant hat, too.  However, the wine manages to evoke these sensations in me, even though I am as far removed from such circumstances as possible.  I consider this a credit to the winemakers.  Once again, hats off to Tamar Ridge.

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